Day 16: Ste Marie to Chorleywood

Couldn’t resist getting up early for breakfast, only to find the usual culprits already there. Packed and met up with P&S at 9:30. Walk around town and into church to pray for miracles from the gypsy saint Sara. Off to Aigues-Mortes to walk round ramparts and tour of this old preserved town with traffic free streets. Nice lunch with, for once, beer at lunchtime. Then P&S dropped us off at Montpelier Airport. Many thanks P&S for coming out to support our ending of the ride.

M25 blocked by accident, so driver decided to go through London taking 3 and a half hours to get home. A trip down memory lane to see Streatham again!

Day 15: St Hippolyte to Ste Marie par la Mar 115km in 5:50hrs

Odd feelings and emotions that this was the last day.

Breakfast on the terrace at the back, with homemade jams and fruit.  Everyone departed before Kevin's briefing, but he just caught us in the square.  Well, its just a small up, then downhill and flat.  And so it was.

Playing leapfrog with P&S we got down to the camargue to cross the Petit Rhone.  We arrived at the ferry just as the previous one was leaving, which was fine as P&S were there so we could have an ice cream during the 30 mins wait. A quick crossing and only 8km to go! We bowled along and soon saw the sea over the protective stone wall which carried on through Ste Maries de la Mar. Changed into our yellow celebration T-shirts. We turned too early for the campsite and went between the sea and the campsite for 1km till we realised our error. We were last in to find the others already celebrating, but they had saved some champagne for us, and I could have my last salted crisps and jaffa cakes. Lots of congrats all round, closing speech from Kevin, bun fight over commemorative T-shirt sizing’s, pedal removal and handlebar twisting round. We walked back with a group to the hotel (The Blue Dolphin) were we had a sea view room with balcony. Quick shower then clambered over rocks for a cold dip in the shallow sea. Brurrrr.

Met P&S for drinks then along to team meal in restaurant where they managed 40 people ordering and drinking randomly with friendliness. Staggered back to hotel somehow. And so to bed.

Day 14: St Enime to St Hipployte 112km in 6:27hrs

A few sections of climbs the one from St Jean du Gard being long, windy and tedious.  As we came into St Hippolyte we were snapped by our team photographer (P) and team support (S) who were supporting us for the rest of trip.  We were very touched that they had make the trip specially to see us.

Stayed in a chambre d'hote run by a slight fey artist, a delightful and characterful house in the town with lots of light and pictures.

Day 13: Chaudes Aigues to Ste Chely du Tarn 99km in 5:53hrs

Bumping along Cherry suddenly said that the back wheel felt ‘funny’. It had gone soft. I pumped it up, but it went down within a few 100 metres. So swinging into ‘change tyre action’ again we took off the tube and replaced it – it was got a pinch rubbed hole due to being twisted when we put it in the day before. So all my fault. Noone came by whilst we spent 30 mins making the change, but the cows came up and were amused by our antics.

Very steep descent into Gorges du Tarn, then along to our hotel perched on the side of the Gorge.  A gorgeous setting.

Day 12: Condat to Chaudes Aigues 91km in 6:28hrs

We were cycling slowly uphill when BANG the rear tyre exploded. I was able to stop quickly and safely on the empty road. Most of the tread had been worn off and finally a piece had opened up so the tube had burst. This was very strange as the tread was fine a few days ago, and we hadn’t done any skidding. Decided eventually that it must have been going over hot tar that was being laid, but I am still not convinced. Mobile signal so a call to the BA support van which was only a few miles up the road, and it was back in 15 mins with my luggage in which , every prepared, I had a spare tyre. The Rohloff external gear connector came off with one unscrew, and the wheel lifted out. Very easy. With Nick’s help we replaced the tyre and inserted a new tube and pumped away. It stayed flat. Adjusted connector, pumped again, the same. So much for Mr super-efficient-me, we had put back in the dead tube! Replaced it again, inflate, re-install and we were off after 45 mins.

Day 11: Pontigibaud to Condat 95km in 6:46hrs

Day 10: Rest day at Pontigibaud

Slightly later breakfast. Cherry said she wasn’t going to go on the option to walk up the Puy De Dome, so I bought a map and we went for a walk up the hill, through lava rill woods via a resistance camp de maquis, then down over untilled fields back to town for a lunch at the other hotel.

Cherry then got a second wind and joined the post lunch trip up the mountain, but I had too much pre-lunch beer to cope, so I rested in the hotel and slept for 2 hours.

Cherry had a good walk, then went to the campsite expecting to find me playing boule. We had a meal in the same hotel we had lunch, and unfortunately the same menu, so we ODed on too much chessey potatoes.

Day 9: Montmarault to Pontigibaud 107km in 7:12hrs

Today was the first day of some climbs. And it was. But first a nice café with complimentary small lemon mousse in Lalizolle at 27km. First lunch at Chateauneuf les Bains (coffee and bread) before steep switchbacks then lesser gradient for 5km. Remaining lunch at St Gevais (61km), the undulating to Fades Viaduct and another 5km climb through woods. Some wizzy downs to Montfermy then steady up hill under autoroute viaduct to Pontigibaud. Felt harder overall than yesterday despite being shorter length. Nice dinner in hotel (once Madam had de-stressed having 20 hungry cyclist wanting beers).

Day 8: Issoudun to Montmarault 114km in 7:31hrs

Longest mileage so far, and seemed tough in the afternoon. Lovely weather and views. Coffee at the village "in the centre of France". Generally up and down with more up than down.

Dinner in the Hotel De France (not where we are staying) - fabulous gourmand 7 course mail.

Day 7: Bracieux to Issoudun 110 in 5:36hrs

Lovely day tandeming with nice undulations. Lunch by the river Cher. Got to campsite before tea so went into Issoudun to explore ramparts and parj by river. Staying in shopping area around ring road, went into Intersports then to the wine merchants and ended up with a party on the 'terrace of the hotel' whilst the waqshing dried. Amazing dinner in restaurant next to Campanile hotel with endless buffet.

Day 6: Chateaudun to Braciaux 83km in 4:14hrs

Dave (from Liverpool) taken to hospital from campsite overnight with perforated appendicis. He had cycled 3 days in this condition! They make them tough up north.

Lovely day tandeming. Crossed Le Loir a number of times, then lunched just after we crosses La Loire. Visited Chambord Chateau up the double helix stair case.

A short day for milage, but seemed long and hard, cycling muct expand to fill the time available.

Day 5: Anet to Chatelldun 116km in 5:32hrs

Lovely tandem terrain.  Smooth roads and minor ups, so best average speed to date.  Bought nice savouries for lunch, but my bike fell over when I was in the shop and broke the mirror..  France still seems shut but we managed a coffee in the afternoon.

My birthday!  BA bought me a card, then there was beer and cake at the campsite.

Cycled through town to Decathalon and bought a new mirror for 5 euros, but the bill came to 100 - as it does in Decathalon everytime we go.  As you might expect from the name, there is a large chateau overlooking the river.  Dinner at the restaurant next to the chain hotel (nice and clean and it all works).

Day 4: Lyons le Foret to Anet 94km in 5:36hrs

Clear and sunny but chilly – campsiters said their was a frost. Off at 9 and similar terrain to yesterday. Viewpoint over a bend in the Seine, then down to coffee overlooking the river at Les Andeleys. At Gaillon walked up a street market and bought some peaches and strawberries. A long steep climb out of town that we managed fine. Nothing open for lunch or coffees in the villages we passed, so we snacked on the grass by a church with some of the others in a similar predicament. Then to campsite at Anet and through town (ornate chateau) to hotel that isn’t a patch on last nights and more motelly in style. Shorter than yesterday but still a big day.

Day 3: Abbeville to Lyons-la-Foret

Raining when we wokr up, but then it just got damp looking and overcast grey. Indecision on what to wear but the same as yesterday. Good breakfast and I made up a sandwich for lunch,  Set off at 9 and tried to but some savouries in Abbeville but nothing open and the boulangeries were bread and sweet things only.
It started off just like a holiday day in northern France were you just wanted to dash quickly to Calais and get the ferry back home.  But the rain held off and by lunchtime the son came out and over the afternoon the skies cleared to blue and fluffy white clouds.  Great cycling for a tandem, with good swooping down and up with some long fast descents, though you pay for them with climbs.  Had lunch on picnic benches by a burrbling brook where we met with 5 others, and we then oscillated with them for the afternoon (us slower up hills but faster on the downs).  Stopped for a coffee is what looked a suspect bar in Forges, but the barman was delightful and filled up my water bottle as well.  Nothing else had been opened all day.
Then through the largest beech forest in Europe, down a short unpaved bit, then to the campsite in Lyons where we sat in the sun having tea and cakes.  Back to the hotel which is quite posh (Hosellerie du Domaine Saint Paul) for shower and more sun on the terrace withg a beer.  All of us are eating in the hotel tonight as thgere is nowhere else locally.
I have got a runny nose and am sneezing and have taken allegy tablets.  I suspect the suncream but it could be the rapeseed. Ahtishoo.  And again.

Day 2: Guines to Abbeville 113km 6:09hrs

Up for breakfast at 7:30. Unfortunately the hotelier didn't get up as early so we had our bread, jam, croissants and coffee at 8.  Picked up at 8:35 for lift to campsite, and after the usual Kevinesque briefing set off at 9:30.  Immediately faced with a 4km uphill to the ridge, then 'undulating' across open fields and woods.  It was a lovely day despite the variable head/side wind.  Coffee at Desvres where we bought some filled crepes for lunch.  A classic pissoir in the back of the cafe open in the corridor!  Followed the River Course winding with pretty houses to Montreuil for lunch in the square in front of Earl Haig on a horse, after a coffee at a bar.  Saw Les Miserables Chocolate shop, odd name but the couple on the next table read out from their guide book that Victor Hugo had set Les Mis here.  Well you learn something new everyday.

Snack at Valloires Abbe where the guy in the shop filled up my water bottle.  Then trundled on up and down dale.  Final snack at the 100km mark, and into hotel in centre of Abbeville at 5.  Excellent day, so much better than LEJOG with no rain.  Now we are showered and relaxing on the bed, with numb bits returning to sensation.  Dionner will be in the only restaurant open, the Garden, opposite.

Day 1 - 15 May - Chorleywood to Dover, Calais, Guines 19km 1:01hrs

We had to be a Dover docks by 12:00 to join the group, pick up our tandem and cycle onto the ferry.  By happenstance there was another rider from Chorleywood, Nick P, going and we contacted him.  His wife was driving him so he very kindly agreed to let us tag along.  We set off at at 9:30 and got to Dover at 11:30, thank you Nick.  Met up with some faces from LEJOG last year.  Restored bike to right attitude, then onto ferry, following the red line through the docks.

A small ferry but we got prime seats facing the front. Had some soup and beer/wine to start the holiday mood. Smooth crossing.

Went into Calais plage, and ran across sands to paddle in the sea. I sensibly took off my sandals whereas Cherry found her shoes were open mesh and filled up with sand. Coming back into town we were stopped for 15mins by the swing bridge letting in boats into the habour. Through the busy centre, then along a canal bank to campsite at Guines. After tea, then getting cold standing around, we were ferried to La Bonne Auberge in Ardes about 6km away. 18 euro meal and P&N paid for the wine as we didn't have enough cash. To bed by 10 and slept well.